Bringing Home Your New Puppy!

Helpful Tips Included!

Elm Tree Doodles

We would like to congratulate you on the acquisition of your new puppy. Owning a dog can be an extremely rewarding experience; but it also carries with it quite a bit of responsibility. We hope this document will give you the information needed to make the best decisions regarding your new puppy. When you bring home a new puppy into your home there will be a period of adjustment. Your goals are to help your puppy quickly bond to its new family, and to minimize the stress associated with leaving its mother, litter-mates, and former home. If there are already dogs in the new home transition may be a little easier as the puppy is able to identify with its own kind.

We are grateful that you have chosen Elm Tree Doodles to help you with your puppy’s health care. The following recommendations tell you what you need to know to help take care of your new puppy.

We are super excited to announce that we have officially partnered up with BAXTER & Bella and their exclusive online puppy school.

Baxter & Bella

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When you are ready to take the plunge into dog ownership, you want to be sure you find the best pet for your needs, lifestyle, and family. The following four characteristics are some that make Goldendoodles some of the best pets.

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1. Great for People With Allergies

If you have allergies, owning a pet can seem like a dream that will never come true - at least not without a lot of suffering. Fortunately, that does not have to be the case. Goldendoodle puppies rarely shed, minimizing the chance of an allergic reaction and the need to vacuum constantly. While all dogs have dander the lack of shedding makes allergic reactions a much lower probability.

2. Playful Nature

Doodle puppies make great playmates. They love to run and exercise, go on hikes, fetch, play in the water, and just about any other physical activity you wish to do. If you are looking for a playful, energetic companion, Goldendoodles or our Double Doodles are an excellent choice.

3. Very Friendly

In general, Doodles are friendly with children and other pets, making them an amazing option for families. They also are not known for barking at your company or at knocks on the door, helping to maintain peace in the home.

4. Vary in Sizes

Doodles puppies can come in many colors and sizes, depending on the precise DNA mix of parents and even the grandparents. Their coats can be straight, curly, or wavy.

At Elm Tree Doodles, we love Doodles and believe they make some of the greatest pets. As a doodle breeder, we are passionate about breeding and raising the best to pass on to your family. Take a look at the gorgeous litters we have and fill out our adoption application to start your journey of doodle ownership today.

1. A double doodle breeder mixes a combination of doodle mix breeds. At Elm Tree Doodles, our double doodles are a mix of the Goldendoodle and the Australian Labradoodle.​

2. A double doodle breeder's mission is to bring out the best of two worlds- the incredible qualities that each doodle mix can pass to their offspring. The result is typically brilliant and friendly dogs. They are more easily trained than many other breeds. They are playful, great with children, and very social with other animals.

3. As a double doodle breeder, we aim to provide the highest quality pets possible, which is why we choose two of the best doodle mixes for the breeding process. We focus mostly on three areas: the doodles' temperament, beauty, and health. With those factors in mind, we choose our breeding partners with care.

4. It's time to experience the love and joy that a double doodle can provide for you! Contact us today to learn more about how our breeding program can benefit you and your family.

Elm Tree Doodles
Elm Tree Doodles Elm Tree Doodles

1. When someone hears about mini Goldendoodles, often they are intrigued by not only the breed but the immediate thought of relief when it comes to size and the amount of shedding. Goldendoodles Associations Of North America considers the mini size is typically between 26 - 36lbs and height: over 14" but under 17" (35cm to 42cm) at the wither... which makes them a delightfully smart, fun, and quirky companion.

2. These smaller versions of doodles can make anyone’s life easier. They are easier to travel with, very portable, and the compact size of the mini Goldendoodle makes them more manageable for some families. They are less likely to knock over a child, easy to control on a leash, and it can be helpful for owners to pick them up when needed. Even though these mini fur friends might be smaller than the average doodle, they give just as much love and affection to their owners. They are actually proven to be very devoted to those who take care of them, so as long as you don’t enjoy personal space without a furry companion intruding, the mini Goldendoodles are a great addition to your family.

3. Fully grown medium Goldendoodles are typically anywhere from 36 - 50lbs and height: over 17" but under 21" (43cm to 52cm) at the wither. This can be a great fit for families who still want a manageable size when it comes to traveling, walking on a leash, and medium sized cuddles but who also want those laidback qualities of a standard doodle. These medium Goldendoodles don’t shed as much as you’d think. Just because they are bigger than mini doodles, they still shed far less hair than your average Golden which makes them much more manageable in your household. They are still easy to pick up when needed and they are more likely to keep up with you when you go on your daily walks/hikes.

4. If you are active and love to go on jogs or walks, this dog might be the best fit for you as they enjoy being outdoors and going on adventures. They have loyal personalities who enjoy being next to their owners whenever they seek the chance. Medium Goldendoodles are intelligent, friendly, trainable, and affectionate.

At Elm Tree Doodles, you’ll be able to find the perfect sized doodle for your family.

Puppy Shopping List

So you’re adding a puppy to your family. Congratulations! Bringing home a new puppy is easily one of the most exciting things you’ll ever do. The excitement & anticipation are certainly building. One thing you can do to prepare for your new bundle of fur is to go shopping! Part of being a responsible puppy owner is making sure you’re prepared—and that you have everything you need to help your new best friend through the transition to his new home. But what, exactly, do you need for a new puppy? Let’s take a look at everything you need to do, buy, and prepare for as you get ready to bring your puppy home for the first time.

Here are some suggested items to purchase for your Goldendoodle puppy!

Once you decide to get your puppy, the very first thing you need to do is make sure that your home is ready for your new addition. Puppies are naturally curious, and they have a tendency to get into everything—including things they shouldn’t. Puppy proofing your home is a must, both to protect your new dog and to protect your home! Invest in a few dog gates that allow you to block off doorways and keep your new puppy contained to a certain area of your home. That way, you can keep an eye on your dog and make sure he’s not only safe but isn’t getting into any mischief (like chewing on your favorite pair of shoes!).

Elm Tree Doodles
Get the Basics:

Once you’ve puppy-proofed your home, it’s time to stock up on the basics your new dog will need to be happy, healthy, and comfortable.

Here are some of the essential items you’ll need to get before you bring home your new puppy:
Food & Water Bowls:

Look to purchase stainless steel or ceramic bowls, as they are healthier for your puppy. Plastic bowls can be chewed, and are harder to clean/sanitize.

Collars/Leashes:

Puppies will quickly outgrow their first collar, but that doesn’t mean that picking the first collar isn’t important! Adjustable, Flat dog collars will allow your puppy to easily adjust to wearing a collar as they have an adjustable lengths and are easily fitted with a snap buckle. Breakaway collar, for quick release Martingale collars and harnesses are collars meant for leash and behavioral training.

​​
ID Tag:

With your pup’s name and your phone number in case your puppy gets lost. Your puppy will go home with a microchip, but it’s always a good idea to have a tag on her collar to make it easy to identify her (without a microchip reader!)

Leash:

Pick out a sturdy flat lead that is 3/4″ wide that’s 5′-6′ long. Flexi leads are not the best choice for young puppies.

Dog Crate with Divider:

Dogs are den animals, and they love the comfort and security offered by a snug space of their own. Metal is preferable over plastic, as it is easier to clean, puppies won’t chew through it and allows your puppy to watch everything going on around her. Your pups crate should be only large enough for your dog to sit, turn around and lay down comfortably. 36” crate is what I would suggest. Some crates offer the option to start off smaller with inserts, so your crate size can grow as your puppy does. You don’t want a crate that is too big for your puppy, as this will allow him to use the extra space as his toilet. A proper sized crate is a helpful tool for house-training and can also help prevent anxiety by establishing your dog’s personal safe space.

Beds:

There are thousands of options when it comes to dog beds, but your puppy only really cares that his bed is soft and clean. Towels, blankets or fancy plush dog beds are all acceptable to your pup! Ensure whatever you choose is easily washed, as potty accidents are bound to happen when your puppy first comes home.

Toys:

Puppies need toys and lots of them! Teething toys help puppies focus their need to chew into an appropriate outlet. Toys should be durable and made with puppy-safe materials that they can’t destroy. Puppies should be supervised when playing with toys to avoid ingestion of small broken off pieces. Interactive puzzle toys are also available to stimulate your puppy’s brain and keep him busy longer!

Whether a stuffed lion, a squeaky octopus, or a treat-dispensing toy, puppies adore their playthings. Toys can be categorized into chew toys that satisfy the need to gnaw, like hard-rubber toys; plush toys, like stuffed animals, that provide comfort to dogs; fetching toys, like balls and flying discs; rope and tug toys, which help to floss teeth while the pup plays; and critical thinking toys, like treat-dispensing devices, that release goodies when the pup performs a certain task.

Despite all the toy choices at your local pet store, you should only offer your puppy strong, durable, well-made toys that are sized appropriately for him. If your puppy does destroy a toy (and he probably will!), remove the damaged toy immediately. Exposed squeakers can be dangerous, as are stuffing, frayed rope toy strands, and small torn-off pieces that can be ingested.

​Shampoo/Conditioner:

Puppies like to get dirty, which means lots of baths! Have puppy-safe shampoo on hand to help remove dirt and grime.

Add essential oils to your shampoo. This is a natural way to keep your dogs bug free. When bathing your puppy, be sure to lather them up very well with the shampoo and let it sit on their skin for about 5 minutes before rinsing. Using a natural pesticide shampoo is a great preventative year round. For conditioner we often just use our own! It is not harmful. Whatever smells the best!

Metal Comb or Grooming Rake:

A metal comb is a great tool for curly coated Goldendoodles and a grooming rake works well for wavy coated Goldendoodles. These will help keep in undercoat free from tangles. For more information on grooming, ​

Slicker Brush:

A slicker brush is handy for fluffing the outer coat on your Doodle.

Nail Clippers or Cordless Dremel:

We like to use normal human toenail clippers for trimming our dogs’ nails. Either nail clipper or a cordless dremel will work for trimming your puppy’s toenails as well – it’s a matter of which you prefer. Your puppy will have had it’s nails trimmed prior to going home and your vet & groomer will likely offer to trim her nails when you take her in for appointments, but it’s still important for you to trim her nails at home.

Styptic Powder:

It’s a good idea to have styptic powder on hand just in case you trim your puppy’s nail a little too short. Styptic powder is located next to the nail clippers in the pet store.

Doggie Toothbrush:

You may find that the finger toothbrush is easiest to use when your Goldendoodle is a puppy.

Dog Food Container:

Dog food often comes in large bags and needs to be stored to remain fresh. Keep your dog food tasting great by storing it out of direct sunlight in a bin that seals tightly. Ensure this bin is made of materials that can keep your dog out to prevent accidental overeating.

Dog Food:

We feed TLC pet food. It is a Canadian made pet food that is distributed across Canada and the USA now. You are not able to purchase this brand in a store, but it is ordered online or via phone and delivered right to your door within a few days. We have been feeding TLC since 2010 now, and we are very pleased with it thus far. It is corn and wheat free which is what generally causes allergies in dogs. All of our puppies, adult dogs, and guardian dogs eat this food. We highly recommend staying with this food.

Please order the food 2 weeks prior to puppy pick up. When ordering enter the following promo code: 42697-1025 to receive $5 off your first order! Delivery takes up to a week, but usually it arrives within 2-3 days where your puppies food will be eagerly awaiting the arrival of your newest family member.

First Aid Supplies:

Puppies are curious creatures and often get into trouble when you least expect it. Having a first aid kit in the house can help when your puppy has an accident. This kit should contain medical supplies, your veterinarian’s contact information and the number for the pet poison hotline.

Carpet Cleaner:

(Stain/Odor Eliminator) & Paper Towels and Clorox Wipes
To clean up those inevitable puppy accidents…

Dog Gate:

There may be areas of your home that aren’t puppy proofed or that you don’t want your puppy to enter. Use puppy gates to block off these areas so your puppy doesn’t get into trouble!

Bell for Housebreaking:

A bell is handy for housebreaking, so your Doodle has a way to tell you when she needs to go out. Any bell will work, it doesn’t have to be a bell specifically for dogs.

As a quality breeder, one of our highest priorities is the health of our dogs and puppies. To ensure you receive a happy and healthy puppy, we feed and recommend only high quality premium dog food. The puppy should be fed All Stage TLC - Not puppy formula. All of our puppies have been fed this since it first started eating solids and any change in diet will surely bring on severe cases of diarrhea. Diet is extremely important in the growing months of a dog’s life. All of our puppies, adult dogs, and guardian dogs eat this food. We highly recommend staying with this food: https://tlcpetfood.com/nutrition/elmtreedoodles

Why Choose TLC Pet?

Elm Tree Doodles
PREMIUM QUALITY PET NUTRITION
  • Meat-first, ancestral based formula sold to North American pet owners since 1994.
  • Made with wholesome Canadian ingredients and biologically beneficial protein sources, TLC has a taste your pup will love and nutrition you can trust.
DELIVERED FRESH. DELIVERED FREE
  • TLC Pet Food is made fresh and delivered for FREE right to your door.
TLC'S AUTOSHIP PROGRAM
  • Schedule your FREE deliveries according to your pet's individual eating habits using Autoship.
  • Never worry about running out of pet food, change, adjust or cancel anytime!

Feeding: Feed on a schedule, giving 15-20 minutes maximum to clean up all food. Then remove what is left until next feeding time. Reason - Leaders control food. To carry this further, if you eat your own meals within 30 minutes of when you feed the dog, make sure that the family eats first (leaders eat first)

Doodle puppies can be finicky eaters. Their caloric output is usually quite high and yet they do not "wolf down" their food like so many other breeds. Puppies should be fed regularly 2-3 times daily until they are 6 months old. At 6 months old, they can be moved to free feeding as recommended by your veterinarian. They love the routine, the preparation in the kitchen (even for dry food). Get in the habit of bringing their food bowl to the location you keep their food and filling it. They will be with you every step of the way.

It’s best to continue to feed your new puppy an all life stages food – meaning same formula from puppy to adult and to senior. The ‘old’ way of thinking is to feed a puppy formula, then an adult formula, etc. Puppy formulas are generally too high in protein and fat, causing your puppy to grow faster. This is harmful to their bones/joints. It is better for your dog to be a ‘slow grower’ and allows puppies to grow at their normal rate, which is essential to form sound hips and joints rather than high calorie puppy foods which have been proven to be one of the causes of hip dysplasia or make an existing problem worse. This formula is 26% protein and 16% fat which is more than adequate for puppy growth and also for maintenance of adult dogs. Also, this is a Canadian product produced in Elmira and distributed from their warehouse in New Hamburg, ON. They have been producing pet foods for the past 25 years and have NEVER had a recall. This is a high quality product that I endorse 100% and all of my dogs, adults and puppy alike, are on it.

Table foods are not recommended. Because they are generally very tasty, dogs will often begin to hold out for these and not eat their well-balanced dog food. If you choose to give your puppy table food, be sure that at lest 90% of its diet is good quality commercial puppy food.

Click or copy and paste this link to place your first or schedule your first order and SAVE $5 PLUS receive a FREE gift. https://tlcpetfood.com/nutrition/elmtreedoodles


Toxic Food to Animals

Elm Tree Doodles

Before you bring home your new puppy, you should also do a sweep of your entire home to identify and remove any potential safety hazards. Could your dog get into the pantry and chow down on potentially hazardous foods (like chocolate)? If so, invest in a lock or gate to restrict access to the area. Do you have a number of plants in your home? Do your research to make sure none of them are toxic to dogs—and, if they are, get rid of them. Remember—your new puppy won’t be able to identify any safety hazards, so it’s up to you to remove them from your home before your puppy arrives.

For some people, a pet’s craving for human food may seem cute or entertaining. Because people enjoy certain foods without immediate health risks, they may mistakenly assume that their pets can enjoy the same items without any ill effects other than potential weight gain. Unfortunately, weight gain is only one of the many problems that may arise from feeding one’s pet certain types of human food. Some foods, even those that are commonly associated with pets such as cats, are toxic and can cause digestive problems or even death. The safest thing that one can do for their pet is to eliminate any risk and avoid feeding them human food altogether. If that is unacceptable, pet owners must research what foods are safe and which are toxic.

Examples of toxic foods for pets, in general, include alcohol, which can cause depression, breathing problems, and even death; grapes and raisins, which can cause kidney failure; and doughs made of yeast, as they can cause a pet’s intestines to rupture. Chocolate and foods containing caffeine can result in vomiting, abnormal heartbeat, increased urination, seizures, and, in some cases, death. Some items, such as milk, are confusing for pet owners, as images of cats lapping up saucers of milk are common. In reality, milk causes digestive issues such as diarrhea, as animals lack enough of the enzyme needed to break down lactose. Other foods that may be toxic to animals include garlic, citrus, raisins and grapes, walnuts, avocados, onions,garlic, chives, Xylitol, Salt and Salty Snack Foods and macadamia nuts and other nuts.

Toxic Plants to Animals

Toxic plants are both an indoor and outdoor safety issue for families with pets. Pet owners must be aware of what plants they bring into their home for decorative purposes during the holidays or for everyday decor. Outdoor flowers, shrubs, and other plants can prove dangerous to pets that may chew and eat them.

When purchasing plants, one can ask local nurseries which plants are safe for animals, and nurseries can also help identify clippings of plants that may be toxic. One’s vet is also a source of information, and they can provide pet owners with a list of plants to avoid both indoors and outside. While there are more than 700 plants that are dangerous if ingested, some of the more common ones include flowers such as calla, day, and Easter lilies, azaleas, hydrangeas, oleander, and autumn crocus.

Other plants that are toxic to animals include the elephant ear plant, English ivy, and rhododendron. If one’s pet has eaten a toxic plant, the animal may show signs such as tremors, vomiting, lethargy, and breathing rapidly. Pet owners who suspect that their animal has poisoned itself should take it to the vet immediately. They should also bring a cut sample of the ingested plant.

Indoor Pet Safety

For some people, their pets spend a good deal of time indoors. While this may seem safer than letting pets outdoors, there are dangers both hidden and obvious that can prove deadly for household pets. Toxic chemicals in the form of household cleaners can be dangerous for pets. Cleaners should be kept closed and stored in a location where they cannot be knocked over or otherwise spilled. People should also avoid using chemicals near their pets, particularly near their food and water.

Windows can be dangerous for pets, particularly high windows. Keep these closed or use screens to prevent animals from falling out.

Stairs may also prove dangerous for pets and owners alike, as some pets may have difficulty walking up or down them and fall, and pets laying on stairs can become stumbling hazards for people. Baby gates can be utilized to keep pets off of stairs and effectively eliminate these types of risks.

Candles are yet another safety issue for homes with pets. Candles should be placed in a sturdy location high enough so that they cannot be knocked over. Special care should be taken when burning candles in homes with cats. Household temperatures are another danger for pets, particularly during the summer months. Temperatures inside of one’s home can increase during the summer months, causing pets stress and putting them at risk for heat exhaustion. People can keep their homes cool by programming their air conditioning unit so that it remains a comfortable temperature. Closing shades or blinds can also keep some of the heat out. Ideally, if a pet is kept inside of a home during a hot day, place the animal in one of the cooler rooms in the house and make certain that clean water is accessible.

Outdoor and Seasonal Pet Safety

There are many hazards to take into account when ensuring the safety of a pet outdoors. Some of these hazards are year-round concerns, while others are more seasonal. When a pet is outdoors other than in one’s fenced yard, it should be kept on a leash at all times. This can help protect the animal from running into the street, where they face the threat of traffic. A leash will also keep one’s pet from wandering into areas that can prove hazardous in terms of toxic plants and flowers, other animals, or homeowners who may not want animals on their property.

During the summer months, pet owners should protect their pets from extreme temperatures and the problems that too much sun can cause. Dogs, for example, can become sunburned if their noses are exposed to sunlight too long without protection. This is particularly true for animals with lighter-colored noses. Hot sidewalks and other surfaces can burn the pads of an animal’s feet if they become too hot as well. On the hottest days, keep pets indoors when possible. If this is not possible, keep them in a shaded area, away from direct sunlight.

During the winter season, pets can become too cold outdoors as well. As in the summer months, keeping pets indoors is ideal during extreme temperatures.

Animals that are unaccustomed to staying indoors can be moved into a garage that is well-ventilated and warm. An outdoor pet house is also an option. If one’s cat is an outdoor pet, tap the hood of a vehicle before starting it in the mornings: Cats often seek warmth in the area of a car’s engine compartment. If they are not startled from their warm spot, they are in danger of serious injury from the radiator fan once the vehicle is turned on. When it comes to canine pets, snow can easily get packed in the pads of their paws and can result in frostbite. When walking outside with a dog, pet-sitting teens or family members should get into the habit of checking paws for snow or ice.

Here’s What People Get Wrong About Dogs and Bones

Dogs and bones: it seems like a natural pairing. That’s why so many comic strips and movies feature dogs gnawing on juicy bones. But in reality, some bones present health and safety hazards for your dog. Chewing is a natural dog behavior, and there are safe dog chews and bones available. In fact, dog bones can provide mental stimulation and keep your dog’s teeth clean. But before you hand over any old bone, read on to learn about which bones are safe for dogs.

Elm Tree Doodles
Most people know that cooked chicken bones are bad for dogs. In fact, cooked bones of any kind can be dangerous because they break and splinter into small, sharp pieces that can cut your dog’s mouth and digestive organs. Shards of bone can cause a number of health problems, including:
  • Mouth and tongue lacerations
  • Choking
  • Broken teeth
  • Cuts and wounds in the mouth or on the tonsils
  • Vomiting and diarrhea
  • Severe constipation
  • An intestinal blockage that may require surgery

The safest bet is to never give your dog a bone from the family dinner. Even cooked beef bones can break into dangerous pieces. In addition to being dangerous, cooked bones aren’t as healthy as other bones because the cooking process strips them of many of their beneficial nutrients. If you want to make use of meat and bones leftover from your meal, consider boiling them up and straining them into a tasty bone broth instead. In general, raw bones are a lot safer than cooked bones. However, there are some raw bones you should never feed your dog.

These include:
  • Pork bones, which easily splinter and crack
  • Rib bones of any kind, which are small and likely to crack or get stuck in your dog’s throat
  • Any bone smaller than your dog’s mouth that they may swallow whole

Raw bones from cows and bison are generally safe when used appropriately. It’s best to know where bones come from, so you should purchase raw bones from a butcher with locally sourced meat. Store them in the freezer and thaw them one at a time to give to your dog. When choosing a raw bone for your dog, look for one that’s about the size of their head. Why so big? Well, a big bone will let your dog chew while reducing the chance that they’ll break off and swallow a dangerous chunk. For extra-large dogs, raw beef and bison knuckle bones make great chews!

One note of caution around feeding your dog raw bones: they can communicate food-borne illnesses like salmonella. If you’ve given your dog a raw bone, make sure you throw it out after a couple of hours.

Safe Commercial Chews

Many dog owners choose commercially-sold chews for their convenience and safety. Greenie dental chews, which are approved by the Veterinary Oral Health Council, are satisfying and 100% digestible chews that satisfy your dog’s urge to chew while also supporting their dental health. Another option is a non-edible chew toy. For example, the Nylabone Dura Chew is a tough, durable nylon bone infused with flavor. It satisfies dogs’ urge to chew, cleans their teeth, and is virtually indestructible. No dangerous small parts here!

Some dog owners opt for bully sticks as an alternative to bones. Bully sticks are fully digestible and don’t break into hazardous pieces. They’re durable chews that will keep your pup busy, but they should only be used as treats. They’re not a replacement for balanced, nutritional dog food. Whether you give your dog a raw bone, a bone-shaped treat, or a non-digestible chew toy, you should always supervise their chewing. Dogs will chew for hours if you let them, so make sure you remove the chew after 10-15 minutes.

How to Give Your Dog a Bone Safely

When it comes to commercially available bones and chews, look for something that’s labeled as easily digestible. Or, for non-edible chew toys, pick something bigger than your dog’s mouth without small or easily breakable parts. Any bone can cause a choking hazard when chewed into small pieces. So, you should always supervise your dog while they’re chewing a bone and take away it away once it’s worn down to a size smaller than their mouth. Finally, it’s best to give your dog a bone or chew after they’ve already eaten. Hungry dogs are more likely to swallow pieces of bone or chew too hard and potentially injure their mouths. A satiated dog will enjoy the mental stimulation of chewing without feeling the urge to eat the bone.

Immunization & De-Woming Schedule

One of the cornerstones of good health for your puppy is regular veterinary care. It is crucial that your puppy maintains a nutritional diet and exercise routine to stay healthy and balanced. Plus, your vet can advise on heartworm, flea and tick preventative care. While a lot goes into keeping your puppy in good health, it all begins with the first visit to the vet.

Do not expose your puppy to "outside" animals until its immunity is fully up and running (after their third and final set of shots at the vets). If you are out for a walk and meet another dog, pick up your puppy. The other dog might have all it’s shots – but you do not know who/what it has been in contact with and it could be a carrier of something. Pet stores encourage you to bring your puppy’s in, but do not until they are fully vaccinated to prevent any issues that might happen.

When Should My Puppy Be Vaccinated?

There are many diseases that are fatal to dogs. Fortunately, we have the ability to prevent many of these by the use of very effective vaccines. In order to be effective, these vaccines must be given as a series of injections. Ideally, they are given at about 6-8, 12, and 16 weeks of age, Rabies vaccine is given at 12 weeks of age. Our puppy package includes all the necessary vaccinations for your puppy.
Do not forget to get rabies shots as required by law!
  • Do continue with vaccinations and heartworm medicine

Worms- your puppy has been wormed according to the Veterinarian Association for Parasite Control; at 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 6 weeks and again at vaccination time. Your puppy should be free from worms but repeat wormings are a must, in order to kill any remaining or newly introduced live worms. Remember, you cannot kill the eggs, only the hatched live worm. This is why you must continue the wormings. The puppy should be wormed at ten weeks and at twelve weeks. Thereafter, fecal exams to check for worm infestation should be done by your veterinarian at his/her recommended scheduling.

Immunizations- are vaccinations administered with the intent to provide immunity to your pet. They are used to protect your pet against particular diseases. The following diseases are briefly explained below:

Rabies- Rabies is a disease caused by a virus that attacks the brain. It can affect any warm- blooded animal, including dogs and humans. It is almost always fatal. The Rabies vaccines are required every three years. A booster is given 1 year following its four-month puppy vaccine and the given every 3 years.

Bordetella- One form of “Kennel Cough” which causes severe coughing and illness. The infection spreads rapidly from dog to dog in close quarters, such as boarding kennel or grooming facility. Following the two vaccines they receive as puppies, this vaccine is given every 6 months.

Leptospirosis- or “lepto” is a deadly bacterial disease spread by wildlife and domestic animals. Common lepto carriers include raccoons, skunks, possums, squirrels, rats and sometimes other dogs. The lepto bacteria are shed in the urine. Dogs become infected when they come in contact with fresh urine of the infected animals. Lepto is a zoonotic disease meaning it can be passed from dogs to people. There a several variant strains of the lepto. Following the two vaccines they receive as puppies, this vaccine is given every year.

DHPP- This is an immunization that protects against multiple infectious diseases. These diseases include Distemper, Hepatitis, Parainfluenza, and Parvovirus. The vaccine is given as young as 6 weeks of age, in a series of 3-4 injections. A booster is given 1 year following the final puppy booster and given every three years.

Distemper- A highly contagious viral disease of the domestic dogs that is usually fatal. “It affects the respiratory system causing severe flu like symptoms at first.” The virus eventually infects the brain causing severe neurological damage.

Hepatits- Caine infectious hepatitis is a specific disease of the liver that is caused by a virus. Parainfluenza-A viral respiratory disease.

Parvovirus- “Parvovirus is a contagious disease of the puppy that causes severe, often fatal, bloody diarrhea.
Heartworm disease and prevention life –threatening parasite
Heartworm disease causes serious damage to a dog’s heart, and can be fatal if left uncontrolled and living in the heart of the dog, the adult heartworms can grow up to 14 inches long. They clog the heart and major blood vessels, reducing the blood supply to the lungs, liver and kidneys. Heartworms put stress on the heart and can cause organ failure, which can lead to death. Mosquitoes transmit this harmful parasite from one dog to another. Female heartworms living in a dog’s heart reproduce and release microscopic worms into the dog’s bloodstream. When a mosquito bites and infected dog it picks up these tiny worms in the dogs then passes them along to other dogs. Since the mosquito can bite any dog, virtually all dogs are at risk.

Consider This:
  • Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes
  • Heartworm disease can lead to heart failure and death
  • Heartworms are easily to prevent!!!!
  • All dogs in Texas are at risk and must be on prevention year round
  • Even a dog who does not step outside can get heartworms, mosquitoes do come into your closed in environment. Protecting your dog is easier than ever. There is no need to expose your dog to the risk of heartworm disease when it is so easy to prevent. We recommend a monthly heartworm preventative. The following product is available to prevent heartworms and other intestinal parasites:

Sentinel: Prevents heartworms, controls hookworms, and aids in the removal and control of roundworms, and whipworms.

Fleas, Ticks And Prevention Options

Fleas are parasitic blood-sucking insects that can transmit many diseases in your pets. Adult fleas live on the pet; however, immature forms are in the pet’s environment. There are many different forms of flea preventatives form topical to oral treatments. Ticks are ectoparasites (external parasite), by living on the blood of mammals, bird and occasional reptiles and amphibians. Ticks are important vectors of a number of diseases, including Lyme disease.

  • Do shop around for a veterinarian. Find someone you are extremely comfortable with, remember you will be going to see them at least once a year for a very long time. Veterinarians also have their own individual fee schedules, so if you call 3 to find out the price you will get 3 completely different prices.
  • Do use the internet to research things you have talked to your vet about, but keep in mind the internet is not always 100% correct.
Flea Prevention

If you’ve ever wondered how to get rid of fleas on dog bedding in your home, in your garden, and even from your beloved dog, I’ve got home remedies have got you covered!

Fleas are the bane of any dog owner’s life. Not only will fleas irritate your dog and cause excessive scratching, once they get into your house, but they also lay their eggs in your furniture, carpet, and anywhere else they can access.

We recommend following the advice of your veterinarian, but if you’re set on a natural approach, the good news is that there are plenty of ways to treat fleas on dogs naturally without using chemical treatments. If you’re wondering how to get rid of fleas on dog hair, dog skin, from inside your home, and even out in the garden, read on to discover top 30 tips on treating fleas at home using all-natural ingredients.

Fleas on Your Dog

If your dog is scratching and you think it’s flea related, there’s plenty of flea home remedies for dogs to choose from. Whether you’re looking for a home-made collar, comb, dip, scrub, or something else, we’ve got plenty of ways to treat fleas on dogs without using any chemicals.

Washes, Sprays, Dips, and Rubs

ESSENTIAL OILS FLEA SPRAY

To make an effective natural insect repellent for dogs that can be applied daily, add five drops each of tea tree oil, citronella oil, rosemary oil, peppermint oil, and eucalyptus oil to one cup of water, If your dog doesn’t mind a spray bottle, dilute a few drops of your chosen essential oil in water and spray directly onto your dog’s coat. (This smells great, too.)

APPLE CIDER VINEGAR AND SALT FLEA SPRAY

The beauty of apple cider vinegar is that it is a way to treat fleas on dogs naturally by balancing a dog’s pH levels, creating an environment that is optimal for your dog’s health yet unsustainable for fleas. Dilute six cups of apple cider vinegar with four cups of water, add a dash of sea salt, then spray directly onto your dog’s coat. Make sure to avoid your dog’s eyes.

LEMON BATH

This lemon bath is simple to make and will keep your pet smelling fresh and noticeably flea free. Simply dilute half a cup of freshly squeezed lemon juice into two cups of water, then add a squeeze of your normal pet-friendly soap or shampoo for a natural way of treating fleas in dogs.

LATHER BATH

Any pet-friendly shampoo that produces a lather will naturally kill existing fleas. When choosing flea remedies natural is always the best choice, so select an organic pet shampoo without any added chemicals. Once your dog is sufficiently lathered, leave the shampoo on for just a couple of minutes while it does its work. This is a great way of killing existing fleas before moving on to flea prevention remedies.

ROSEMARY DIP

If your dog enjoys playing in water, this Rosemary dip will seem like a fun game rather than a flea remedy. Steep fresh rosemary leaves in boiling water, then strain the mixture and dilute it well in warm water. When the water reaches a comfortable temperature, pour the mixture over your dog and let it dry naturally.

MULTI-PURPOSE NEEM OIL

Neem oil is a natural insect repellent and one of the lesser-known flea treatments. If you are able to obtain this oil, native to Burma, Sri Lanka, and parts of India, you can apply it directly to your dog’s coat, add it to your normal natural dog shampoo, or dilute it well to make your own flea spray.

ORGANIC SOAPS

By swapping out your usual dog shampoo for organic soaps such as organic peppermint soap or organic Rose soap, you can wash your dog as normal and get a flea-free and great smelling dog at the end of it.

AROMATHERAPY SPRAY

If you’re familiar with aromatherapy, you can make up a batch of aromatherapy that will not only treat a flea infestation but also prevent future occurrences, whilst acting as a natural soother for your dog. Try sweet almond oil as the base oil, and add drops of Atlas cedar oil, lemon eucalyptus oil, geranium oil, bay laurel oil, common myrrh oil, and lavender oil.

COCONUT OIL RUB

Is there anything that coconut oil can’t do? Coconut oil can help in a number of ways when treating fleas. Rubbing a teaspoon of coconut oil directly into your dog’s coat will not only repel fleas but will make the coat shiny and reduce body odor. If added to your dog’s normal food, coconut oil can even help treat intestinal parasites due to its antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties.

Collars

LAVENDER OR CEDAR OIL FLEA COLLAR

A home-made flea collar is an ingenious way of keeping your dog’s flea protection constant without having to spray or rub them with the mixture. Either purchase or make a simple collar or bandanna, then dilute a few drops of lavender oil or cedar oil in water and apply it directly to the collar or bandanna.

VODKA FLEA COLLAR

Who knew that vodka was an effective way of treating fleas in dogs? Buy or make a simple dog collar, then soak it in a teaspoon of unflavoured vodka and let dry. You could also add a few drops of your essential oil of choice to make a scented collar, otherwise just using the vodka alone is a good alternative for dogs who don’t like the scent of essential oils.

Combs and Sachets

LEMON COMB

Lemon is widely recognized for its abilities to both repel and kill fleas while being completely harmless to dogs and humans. Simply dip your dog’s regular comb or brush into fresh lemon juice and apply it to their hair as normal. For a short-haired breed, a cloth dipped in lemon juice will give the same benefit.

FLEA COMB

If you already have a store-bought flea comb, this is one way of treating fleas that we would recommend, and it doesn’t require any additional purchases. Flea combs don’t contain any chemicals but are specially designed to remove fleas and their eggs from your dog’s coat. If your dog is already infested with fleas, this is a great way of removing existing fleas before using other flea home remedies for dogs to keep future infestations away.

FLEA SACHET

If your dog doesn’t like being sprayed or having products applied directly to their coat, this flea sashay is easy to make and will provide the same benefits. Buy or make a small bag of breathable fabric such as hessian or muslin, then fill the bag with lemon peel, dried lavender buds, and cedar chips. Tie up the top of the bag and place it near your dog’s sleeping area. The mixture may lose its potency after about a month, at which time you can simply reopen the bag and replace with fresh ingredients.

VINEGAR OR APPLE CIDER VINEGAR DRINK

To combat and prevent fleas from the inside out, try dilating vinegar or apple cider vinegar in your dog’s drinking water. You’ll need to test them first to make sure they enjoy the taste as you don’t want to put them off drinking their water altogether. One teaspoon of your vinegar of choice for every four cups of drinking water is a good ratio to aim for. Not only will you keep fleas at bay, but your dog’s coat and skin will also see the benefits to.

BREWER’S YEAST

Perhaps the least obvious way to treat fleas on dogs naturally is to start from the inside out. It remains true that healthy dogs are less likely to host fleas, and one way of improving the health of your dog while warding off fleas is to add a small amount of brewer’s yeast to your dog’s food. Just a half teaspoon of brewer’s yeast mixed in with your dog’s normal meal makes for an effective flea remedy.

Fleas in the House

When there are fleas on your dog and you let your dog inside, what do you have? Fleas in the house, of course. If you’re wondering how to get rid of fleas on dog bedding and other items your dog has access to in your house, read on for plenty of ways of eliminating fleas at home.

MACHINE WASH

When you’ve got fleas in the house, the first step is to gather up all soft furnishings your dog spends any time on, including blankets, towels, beds, pillows, and mats, and put everything through the washing machine. It’s a big task, but it’s an essential one to combat your existing flea problem.

TUMBLE DRY

Washing your soft furnishings is important, but putting everything in the tumble dryer will be even more effective. Just 15 minutes in a hot tumble dryer will kill fleas in all stages of growth, including eggs, larvae, and adult fleas.

VACUUM

Your vacuum cleaner is going to be your biggest ally when it comes to treating fleas at home. A water-based vacuum cleaning system is ideal, as the fleas are drowned as soon as they are picked up by the vacuum cleaner. For dry vacuum cleaners, remember that the fleas you collected will try to escape as soon as you open up the canister or bag, so do this immediately and outside your home. Ideally, spray your vacuum cleaner canister with water as soon as you open it to prevent fleas from escaping.

BAKING SODA

By sprinkling baking soda directly onto your carpet and then penetrating and disturbing the carpet fibers by sweeping side to side with a broom, you’ll dehydrate fleas and their eggs. Leave the baking soda on your carpet overnight, then you can simply vacuum up the baking soda and the fleas in the morning.

SALT

Just like the baking soda method above, sprinkling salt on your carpet and soft furnishings before vacuuming the next day will dehydrate and kill fleas and flea eggs. An excellent flea treatment, salt still needs to be used with caution as it can cause your vacuum cleaner to rust if not properly cleaned out after you’ve finished vacuuming.

LEMON SPRAY

Lemon spray is a brilliant way of treating fleas that doesn’t require vacuuming afterward. Boil a thinly sliced lemon in water and then let the mixture cool down overnight. In the morning, fill a spray bottle with the mixture and lightly dampen your carpet and all soft furnishings in your home.

STEAM CLEAN

Steam cleaning your carpets and soft furnishings drowns fleas on impact and will also keep your home looking and smelling great.

DIATOMACEOUS EARTH

Diatomaceous earth is a fine powder created – strangely enough – from the microscopic remains of algae. We’ll admit it sounds strange, but an incredibly effective way to treat fleas naturally is to sprinkle diatomaceous earth on your carpet and let it sit there for 48 hours. Ideally, block off the area so no one – especially your dog – can walk over it during this time. Afterward, vacuum the carpet thoroughly. Diatomaceous earth is an effective way of drying out and killing flea eggs, to prevent another round of infestation.

FLEA TRAP

If you’re wondering how to get rid of fleas inside your home, this flea trap is an ingenious idea that doesn’t involve spraying anything on your soft furnishings. Simply fill a plate or bowl with warm water and add a few drops of your usual dish soap, then leave it on the floor overnight. The high viscosity of the mixture acts as a glue, trapping fleas onto the surface. In the morning, simply empty out the mixture and wash your plate or bowl well.

ROSEMARY PREVENTION

If you have a pestle and mortar handy, you can mix up a batch of Rosemary powder to prevent a future flea infestation. Add your choice of other ingredients including peppermint, wormwood, fennel, and rue to make a fine powder to sprinkle throughout your home.

Fleas in the Backyard

Just because you can’t see them doesn’t mean they’re not there. If your dog has a case of the fleas, there is a very good chance they’re lurking in the darkest, moistest areas of your backyard too. When it comes to outdoor flea remedies natural methods are always the best,

KEEP YOUR GARDEN BARE

Fleas love to hide, so the barer your garden is, the less likely it will be they’ll choose your garden to hide in. Trim or remove overgrown bushes and hedges, and keep your garden weed free.

BEWARE OF THE DAMP

Fleas thrive in damp, dark places, and they’ll avoid sunlight as much as possible. Examine your garden through the eyes of a flea and ask yourself where they’d be most likely to hide. With this in mind, remove twigs, dead leaves, and excess mulch from under bushes. Allow the sunlight to access your backyard as much as possible and avoid overwatering.

THE GOOD KIND OF WORMS

No one likes the idea of worms running rampant in their garden unless we’re talking about a certain type of nematodes – Steinerma Carpocapsea to be exact. These tiny worms eat fleas while being completely safe for your dog and your garden.

FLEA REPELLING PLANTS

An excellent way to treat fleas naturally is to plant certain plants that naturally repel fleas. Spearmint, chrysanthemums, lavender, and Penny Royal are natural flea repellents for your garden, and there are plenty of others. You may need to do some research to discover which plants will grow well in your area before heading to your local plant nursery.

A Note on Essential Oils

You may have noticed a large number of essential oils mentioned in the various flea home remedies for dogs in this article. When it comes to flea remedies natural essential oils can be incredibly effective, and there are a number of different scents you can use. The choice will ultimately come down to the essential oils available to you, and your personal preferences.

Since dogs have such sensitive noses, we recommend first testing a very small amount of an essential oil near your dog to see how they react. Just like humans, dogs will have some scents that they enjoy more than others and some that they find almost repulsive. In your quest to treat fleas naturally, you should also keep in mind your dog’s preferences and avoid spraying all over their bedding with an essential oil they can’t stand.

Just imagine having to sleep every night with your head on a pillow scented with your least favorite scent, and you’ll understand the importance of letting your dog have a say in the scents and ingredients you choose.

Do’s And Don’ts When Getting A New Puppy!
  • Do not let the puppy near stairs alone until he/she has entirely mastered them under strict supervision.
  • Do not let your puppy run up and down stairs repeatedly. Your puppies joints need to develop and constant running up and down stairs can affect them in the future. We recommend limited stairs until they are 1 year old.
  • Do not take your puppy for a 10 kilometer run the week you take it home. As above, your puppy’s joints need to develop and too much exercise can greatly affect them. We strongly recommend limited exercise until they are 1 year old. Build up your walks with your puppy, but do not overdo it.
  • Do not pick the puppy up by the scruff of the neck.
  • Do not allow children to roughhouse or maul the puppy. You wouldn't let the neighborhood kids do so with your ten-week old baby. Puppies aren't any different.
  • Do not feed a puppy rawhide, as it does not digest well and can create problems. We recommend not feeding rawhide to adult dogs also.
  • Do get you puppy a tennis ball to play with when they are young – but when they grow up switch it to an orange hockey ball. Tennis balls are great for young puppy’s, easy to hold onto and chase. When your puppy gets a little bigger, they will start chewing the felt and split the ball. The tennis balls can become trapped in their throat as they are springy rubber – so switch to a hockey ball when your puppy keeps it in their mouth and constantly chews.
  • Do keep the puppy well confined during the first several weeks home. A puppy that gets loose may wander away and forget, or not know where home is.
  • Do housebreak and train your dog with kindness and attention to detail. A helpful tip is to hang a bell from the door knob. Ring it whenever you take the puppy out to go to the bathroom. Quickly, they will learn to ring it for you to let you know it is time to go out. You can find more info on line “Bell Training”.
  • Keep in mind, that puppy bladders are usually not large enough to last the entire night until they are around 4-6 months old. After every meal, puppies should be taken outside – they go multiple times; a full stomach puts pressure on the bladder and colon. Use a word, which helps to train you puppy. Our dogs all know the word “Hurry Up”. We start is as a statement (Good Hurry Up), and then as they grow form it as a question to them (Do you need to Hurry Up?), they reply by letting us know they need out. As they go we advise them “Good Hurry Up”. Watch for signs of puppy’s needing out, whining, going in circles. More attention early makes your life easier later.
  • Do take your puppy outside to go to the bathroom on a leash. Go outside to the spot you want them to use and just stand their in the same spot instead of wandering around. If you stand in the same spot, your puppy will have a circle around you that they soon become bored of and then they remember what they are there for. If you go to a spot, and then after 2 minutes move 3 feet to the left – you have just doubled their area of exploration. It might take up to 20 minutes the first few times – but stick it out and it will be worth it.
  • Do get up in the middle of the night for the first few nights and take your puppy outside. If you take your puppy outside they will go to the bathroom and then go back to sleep. If your puppy has to become frantic and wake you up and then go outside to the bathroom – they will be wide awake and not ready to go back to sleep.
  • Do give your puppy all the love and attention you can possibly spare. He/she is going to need it and will return it to you, with triple digit interest.
  • Do hook the leash onto your puppy’s collar and let them drag it around the house the first day to get familiar with it. If you go thru a period where your puppy stays just out of reach as a game – leave the leash attached and that gives you an extra 5-6 feet to be able to catch your puppy.
  • Do let your puppy run around outside in supervised area’s without their leash. They will explore but it will also teach them to come back to you. If you have ever heard of a dog that ran away the second it was off the leash – that’s because they were always on the leash and did not understand what it was like to be free – so they took full advantage of it.
  • Do not use a crate for discipline, it is for supervision only.
  • Do consider reading up, we found that “Dogs for Dummies” is a great book and provides help for most situations – but keep in mind not everything they recommend is perfect for all puppy’s and family’s.
  • Do sign up for puppy school and at least one additional level of training. Talk to people you meet and find out where they went. There are some training classes / schools where multiple people are allowed to attend (we recommend). If you are attending one where only the puppy handler goes – as soon as school is over, return home and replay everything you learned to the entire family – so that you are prepared for next week. Some schools will allow you to start after your puppy has had his second vaccinations; some require your puppy to have his 3rd set of vaccinations.
  • Do not be afraid look at recommended dog schools outside your immediate area. You want your dog to learn about being confident around other dogs and people, you want them to learn that the human members of your family are in charge and the leaders. You want your puppy to develop a work ethic that starts with treats and repetition to learn, and you want help to teach your puppy good life skills (what is acceptable and what is not). You also want to make sure that Positive Reinforcement is the method of training that your school uses.
  • Do ask to attend a training class as an observer, and don’t be afraid to ask some of the dog owners about their experiences with the school.
  • Do take a couple of different kinds of treats – something really soft and smelly that you always use for teaching important lessons and broken up pieces of milk bones.
  • Do not feed your puppy dinner before you go to school, if they are hungry they will work harder for the treat reward and learn faster.
  • Do not leave a collar on your puppy while they are unattended in the house, as it could pose a strangulation risk to an inquisitive puppy.
  • Do consider a “Gentle Leader” for your puppy if they get to the stage and start to take over walks for you. When put on and used properly a gentle leader is a wonderful tool to help your puppy. We did not believe in them. But tried one at puppy school and it immediately changed our puppy’s attitude. Instead of having to work hard, our job became extremely easy and we both had a much better experience at school.
  • Do purchase some hard bones for your puppy, we find that the Rollover ones are extremely hard and last forever. Do not purchase dog bones from a pet store (etc..) that are white. They are from places that do not have the standards that we have and they have been extremely bleached just to be allowed into the country.
  • Do provide leadership for your puppy. Dogs are pack animals and will treat your entire family like their pack. Problems occur when dogs rank themselves about the human members of the pack. Dogs need and want a pack leader. Some simple tips are (1) make your puppy wait until you go through the doorway first (2) make your puppy move out of your way – do not go around him/her if they are standing, sitting or lying in your path (3) elevation is important – do not allow your puppy onto your furniture or beds until the pecking order is established – so keep this in mind if you play with your puppy on the floor – when you are at their level – “it’s Playtime”, but when you get up “you are the boss” – teach them to settle when you stand up from playtime (4) feed your puppy after your family has eaten. Always remember that you are IN CHARGE and the pack leader. If you have children you will also have to ensure that they understand this and you will have to help them to rank higher on the pack list than your puppy – but also keep in mind that if you make the correction – that just establishes you as the leader – not your children.
  • Do expect to learn more from dog school than your dog does, and to take that information home and apply it to everyday life, which will help your puppy to fit into your family and your extended family and everyone you meet.
  • Do make sure everyone involved in the housebreaking process is using the same spot in the yard, using the same word etc..
  • Do establish a list of words for your puppy and family to learn and use. One of the harder ones to keep sorted out is down and off. Down should be a command to “lay down”, off should mean “get off” whatever you are on (me, couch, jumping on people, etc.) Keep the wording short to start, and as the puppy grows you will be able to form sentences around the words and they will understand.
  • Do become consistent and keep to a schedule. Create a routine around your puppy. This will help to train your puppy faster and easier. Everyone must help and work on keeping the schedule and routine.
  • Do trim your puppy’s toenails weekly, and if nothing needs to be trimmed go through the motions so that they are always used to having their feet held on to.
  • Do not scold your puppy for things they have done wrong – if you did not catch them in the act. They have an extremely short attention span and most times will have no idea why they are in trouble (even if it is 5 seconds later).
  • Do understand that submissive urination is NOT a house training problem. When dogs are young they will sometimes urinate when they greet other dogs or people. It is a sign in canine terms that the puppy is acknowledging the dominance of other dogs or people. Puppy’s have NO Control over this behavior so you must NOT scold them for it (it will make it worse if you do). The best thing to do is ignore it and try to prevent it through better management. Have the puppy go to the bathroom immediately before guests come over, don’t let people bend over and enthusiastically greet your puppy when they immediately meet.
  • Do realize puppies chew everything. They are new to this world and need a taste of anything that they can reach, pull on or sleep on. They are just exploring, and without hands – everything goes into the mouth for inspection. You will be amazed at what they can reach.
  • Do expect stuffed toys to be ruffed up. We regularly have stuffed frogs or ducks missing hands, feet, the squeaker, the stuffing and they still play away with the remaining flattened body. Just make sure to throw out any small pieces that they have removed before the try to eat them, because they will.
  • Do rotate toys and bones etc.. so they do not become bored
  • Do always manage the environment around the house / puppy. Praise and encouragement are the most effective methods of training. Is it more work, yes.
  • Do become consistent with everything you and your puppy do, and always reward good behavior.
  • Do limit the amount of soft treats you give to a puppy, as they are harder on their stomachs.
*Do keep in mind that if you do not always have your eye’s on your puppy and they do something wrong, to take that piece of rolled up newspaper and hit YOURSELF. What were you thinking?*

Here are some helpful Tips

Puppy Behavior & Training

​A trained dog the vision that we as puppy owners all dreamt about. A puppy that’s leisurely strolling beside you, or sitting calmly at your feet at an outdoor cafe. But there are some steps to do to make sure your pup is on the right track with their training in order to get there!

In the beginning, that perfect pup will come with some growing pains: nipping, chewing, bathroom accidents, barking, and more. Your puppy is growing and developing quickly. Once they’ve been home for a couple of weeks, your puppy should know the basics of a daily routine and be working on some obedience training and learning basic commands.

So how do you know what you should begin training your pup first on? No matter what age you bring home your new pup, you can use our puppy training schedule as a guideline to help your puppy grow, develop, and learn the good manners they need at home and in the world to help shape them into becoming that perfect pup you envisioned!

Most new puppy owners put housebreaking high on their list of priorities. After all, it's frustrating when your dog pees in the house. House training is one of the first things you will work on with your new puppy. Get your puppy off to a good start by putting him on a regular schedule. Feed him at similar times each day.

When You Are Watching Your Puppy:
House Breaking Your Puppy!

Remember that puppies respond to very basic reflexes with regards to their toilet habits. Take advantage of these very basic reflexes and turn them into house training. There are certain times when puppies naturally will have the call of nature.

After Eating – After Drinking – After Napping – After Playtime

Remember to go outside with the puppy. Pick up the pup and go outside with him/her. If you put them outside by themselves they will be so upset about being separate from you that they will not go on their own. Make a big fuss over the puppy when it goes outside. They will learn to urinate outside just to please you. Watch your puppy. Pups do not just squat and urinate. They search out for just the right spot thereby giving us ample warning.

The Umbilical Cord Method

This method of house training is best used with the other techniques detailed above. Attach you pup to a long leash that is tied to your wrist or waist. This allows it a certain amount of freedom while ensuring your constant supervision over its activity. The pup cannot wander away to have an undetected “accident” and you can anticipate the pup’s need to potty, taking it directly outside.

When You Are Not Watching Your Puppy:

A very natural instinct in the dog world is the instinct to not soil its own space. We can take advantage of this natural instinct with crate training. If a puppy is left in a crate it will be faced with a decision. It can either hold it or sit in it. Most puppies will try to hold it. If you allow them too much space of course, they will sleep in one end and urinate in the other end. Block off larger crates into smaller areas and once he has been good for a few days, slowly increase the amount of space that he can have.

Basic Training

The best and most reliable way to house train your puppy is to provide frequent opportunity to eliminate in an appropriate place and to reward this behaviour immediately as it occurs. To do this, walk your puppy on a leash at regular intervals and at least twice every day.

Puppies require more frequent walks until they are able to reliably control their bladders. This usually occurs by 6 months of age. The best method of house training is to take your puppy out within several minutes after each meal and each nap. These are predictable moments during the day when bowel and bladder are most full. Feed your puppy at scheduled mealtimes and avoid snacks between feedings. Allowing you puppy continuous access to food makes house training more difficult.

It is best to leash walk your puppy within 15 minutes or sooner after each meal. Continue to walk, incorporating play to make it fun, until the puppy has eliminated. If your puppy is too young to walk on a leash, carry it outside to an enclosed, safe area. Stay nearby and play with or pet it. If your pup is slow adjusting to leash walks, be patient. Avoid pulling the leash and allow your pup to take its time. When the pup prepares to eliminate, begin praising it in a happy and light tone of voice. Continue your praise until the task is completed. Immediate encouragement is necessary for your pup to learn to eliminate in an acceptable area. As your dog eliminates, pleasantly say something like “hurry” or “do it” and give abundant praise. This teaches the pup to void on command so that you won’t freeze unnecessarily on a cold winter night while the pup leisurely looks for just the right spot. If your pup is initially afraid of the leash, leave the leash on indoors for brief period without holding onto it. When the pup becomes more accustomed to the collar and leash, take the pup for brief leash walks indoors before graduating to walks outside. Daily leash walks through out a dog’s life help maintain good elimination habits.

Paper training is not the method of choice, contrary to popular opinion. Paper training encourages the pup to eliminate on newspapers spread over the floor in a designated area of the home. This can lead to several problems. The first is that you may confuse your pup by teaching it twice what it needs to learn only once. When, and if, the pup has learned to void on the newspapers, it must then be retrained to eliminate outside. The second problem with paper training is that you may unintentionally teach your pup that it is acceptable to eliminate inside your home. Though some puppies stay on the paper, many more miss the boundaries set for them. Instead, it may learn that soiling in a variety of unacceptable areas in your home is acceptable.

Another problem is the practice of punishing the pup for eliminating in the house and then taking it immediately outside. Punishment is often followed by whisking the puppy outside into a big and scary world, where the irritated owner impatiently waits for the puppy to “go”. Your puppy may begin to fear you and fear eliminating in your presence.

It is pointless to punish your dog at any age for “accidents” that occur in your home. This is particularly true when there is any delay between the act of soiling and your discovery of the mess. To be effective, punishment (and praise, for that matter) must closely follow our pet’s action. No matter how frustrated you may be, clean up the mess and concentrate on the steps to prevent another one.

Puppy Obedience Training

Congratulations on your new puppy! If this is your first dog, welcome to the wonderful world of dog ownership. Puppies are a lot of fun, but they also take a lot of work. There are many things your puppy needs to thrive; proper training is one of the most important of these. Puppy training can seem overwhelming. There's so much for a new puppy to learn. Not to worry! These tips can help you navigate puppy training so your new pet will become a happy and healthy member of your family.

People often.. at what age they I should start puppy training. The answer is immediately! Here are some quick tips on the steps to training and maintaining an obedient and balanced dog from the start. New puppy owners often make the mistake of endlessly worrying about finding the right accessories, puppy treats, or bed. They spend little or no time thinking about how or what they will teach their new puppy. Yes, a puppy needs nutritious food and a safe, warm place to live, but another equally powerful and important biological necessity is the need for a strong pack leader.

Be the Pack Leader

Puppies are naturally hard-wired to follow a pack leader. A pack leader is, by definition, strong, stable, and consistent; traits many new puppy owners forget. Many of my clients are strong leaders in their jobs, but when they come home, they turn to mush with their dogs. Then they come to me puzzled as to why their dog won’t behave. Puppies sense our confidence levels and will take control if they perceive us as weak. When this happens, bad behaviours such as excessive barking, chewing, leash-pulling, or anxiety, will develop.

The most important thing you can do is become your puppy’s pack leader. This role doesn’t begin when your dog is six months old or when he’s bad; it should be maintained throughout the entire dog training experience. For your new puppy to grow into a healthy, balanced dog, you must demonstrate leadership from day one!

Are you ready to start training your puppy? A proper dog training program is the cornerstone of good behavior in dogs. It has often been said that there are no bad dogs, only uneducated owners. Most dogs thrive with boundaries and predictable routines. Without obedience training, they simply do not know how to behave. Well-trained dogs are happier and healthier than untrained dogs, and so are their owners.

There are a lot of different ways to train your dog. You may choose to sign up for a dog training class, hire a professional dog trainer for private lessons, or even send your dog to board with a trainer. However, plenty of people successfully train their dogs on their own. It's a great way to save money on training costs, and a wonderful way to bond with your dog.

In order to effectively train your dog, it's important that you have a plan. You will need to gather some equipment, set up a schedule, and learn a few things about training. You also need to be fully committed and prepared for a daily commitment. Here's what you need in to begin a dog obedience training program yourself.

Equipment

Effective dog training does not require many items, but there are a few basic supplies that will help make the process more convenient and effective. Choose a dog collar or harness that is suitable and comfortable for your dog. Then decide which dog leash is best for training. A retractable leash is not appropriate for dog training. You will also need dog training treats that your dog enjoys and are easy to eat quickly so the reward is more immediate. There are plenty of great treats available at pet stores or you can also use something you make at home, like small pieces of plain cooked chicken or turkey.

Choose a Method

Before you begin dog obedience training, choose the best method for you and your dog. Training styles vary, but most trainers agree that dogs respond best to positive reinforcement, such as praise or treats. One common training variation, known as clicker training, includes the use of conditioned reinforcer. There are plenty of dog training books and websites where you can learn about training techniques and determine which best suits you and your dog. When planning out your training methods, don't forget about socialization.

Set up Sessions

Success is usually attained in small steps. Training sessions with your dog should last 10 to 15 minutes, two to three times per day. This is especially true for puppies because of their very short attention spans. Longer sessions can cause an adult dog to become bored. Start by teaching basic commands. Try to stick with one action per training session so your dog does not get confused.

Basic Commands

Often, the sit command will be one of the easiest for your dog to learn first. Next, you can train your dog to lie down. At the same time, work on teaching your dog to stay. In addition, your dog should be trained to come when called as soon as possible. This is one of the most important fundamental commands. Once your dog has mastered these dog obedience basics, you can move on to fun tricks and advanced commands.

During training, puppies respond better to positive reinforcement than punishment. Punishment may stop unwanted behavior, but it does not tell the puppy what you want him to actually do. Harsh punishments may even lead to behavior issues like fear or aggression. Positive reinforcement makes your puppy want to do more of the things you want him to do.

It's quite easy to get your puppy to repeat the behaviors you like by rewarding him with praise, treats, and games. Ignore or redirect your puppy when he misbehaves and reward good behavior. Soon, your puppy will be offering good behavior on a regular basis.

Petting

Withhold petting until the dog responds to a command. When the dog nudges you, reward him with petting only when he responds to the sit or down command. If the dog fails to respond to a command ignore him by turning, getting up and walking away. Only pet when the dog has done something to earn our praise. (Come and sit/down on command). Reason- Leaders decide when to give affection.

Toys

When toys are not being unused, keep them picked up and out of reach. Reason- Leaders possess things. This way, you own the toys and loan them to the dog to play with. Toys do not include chews.

What Type Of Playing Should I Expect From A Puppy?

Stimulating play is important during the first week. Stalking and pouncing are important play behaviors in puppies and are necessary for proper muscular development. If given a sufficient outlet for these behaviors with tots, your puppy will be less likely to use family members for these activities. The best toys are lightweight and movable. These include wads of paper and rubber balls. Any toy that is small enough to be swallowed should be avoided.

Crate Training
Crate Training Your Puppy

Do not allow the dog onto human resting areas (beds, sofas, and chairs) Reason- Leaders control the best sleeping areas.

A crate is used to confine a puppy when you are unable to supervise him. If your puppy is given enough time to become comfortable in his crate, it may become one of his favorite spots. Crates can help prevent your puppy from developing bad habits like inappropriate chewing or soiling.

Crates are also good tools for house training. Most dogs will not relieve themselves in the same place where they sleep. If your dog is in the crate when he isn't outside with you or under your supervision in your house, you may be able to stop or even avoid the habit of him going potty indoors.

A puppy shouldn't be kept in his crate for more than a few hours at a time. However, he should not have the full run of the house, even when you are home to supervise him. There are too many things in a house for a puppy to chew on, hide under, or get harmed by. Confining him to a kitchen or another small room with a door or baby gate can go a long way in preventing your puppy from developing bad habits.

Remember, a puppy who gets the opportunity to do something he finds enjoyable, such as gnawing on your furniture, is more likely to repeat the behavior. Confinement keeps him from getting these opportunities.

The rule of thumb for dog training is “set up for success.” Supervise the puppy at all times until it has learned what it is allowed to chew, and where it is supposed to eliminate. Keeping the puppy on a 10 foot remote leash is an excellent way to keep it in sight, and to train it not to wonder off. This is particularly helpful with a highly investigative puppy or for a very busy household.

At any time that the puppy cannot be supervised, such as throughout the night or when you need go out, house it in a secure area. An escape proof crate, a dog run, or collapsible pen is simple, highly effective, and most important, safe. When selecting your dog’s confinement area it is useful to consider a number o factors. The dog will adapt fastest to the new area if it is associated with rewards. Have the puppy enter the area for all its treats and toys the area should have some warm dry, comfortable bedding and should never be used for punishment. Each time the puppy needs to be confined it should be first well exercised and given the opportunity to eliminate.

Choose a crate the same size as your puppy/dog. He/she should only have enough room to stand up, turn around and lie down. His/her crate is for sleeping or for a safe place to be when you cannot be with him. If you get a huge crate for a small dog, he may eliminate in one end and sleep in the other and you will have defeated the whole purpose of using the crate (dogs do not like to eliminate anywhere where they sleep or eat). If you have a puppy who will grow into a 30-40lb dog, you may have to buy two different crate sizes or purchase a crate with a divider you can move as he grows.

Crate training is not putting your dog/puppy in a cage or jail, and you are not being cruel if you follow these tips. Dogs feel secure in small, enclosed spaces, like a den as they are denning animals. Dog crates make excellent dens. It is a safe place for him to stay when you're away or when you cannot watch him.

Watch your own dog around home. Where do you find him/her napping in his deepest sleep? Under the table, desk, chair or in a corner? Yes, somewhere out of the traffic pattern where he has a roof overhead or walls around him/her and a little privacy. A crate offers security, a den with a roof, and a place to call his very own where he can go to get away from it all.

There are basically just a few steps in "crate" training and they are as follows:

Use a single-word command for your dog to enter his crate, for example, “BED, KENNEL"; throw in a treat or piece of kibble; when the dog/puppy enters, praise him and close the crate door. Increase the time he spends in the crate before you let him back out. Remember, your dog still needs time to play and eliminate. Maintain a regular schedule of trips outdoors so as not to confine him too long.

To make things easier for your pups transition to his/her new home, we have started crate training. From birth the pups have been going into a large crate at night with Mom and now for the past week as they have been weaned they have been going into individual cat carriers at night. The pups generally go to sleep around 10p.m. and wake up at 7 a.m. As this is sleep time for them they are very seldom waking up to go to the bathroom. Now this being said, should they be put in a crate during the day or when they are awake they most likely will not be able to hold their bladder/bowels for such a long period of time.

Your puppy has two different cries. One to say “Hey, I need out to use the bathroom” and one that says “I am awake in here and lonely”. It will take you some time to become accustomed to his/her sounds but remember one thing if your puppy is crying for attention and you take him/her out for cuddles in your bed, the cycle of training may have to be started over as they have now learned that crying means they get out and are given cuddles. Always try to console through the crate rather tan taking out.

Always take your puppy/dog outside to the same area in your backyard to eliminate on a leash so you can praise him when his job is finished. This will take the guesswork out of his visits to the backyard. And don't forget to play with him and exercise him. He needs this kind of stimulation for his mental and physical wellness. Remember, your dog or puppy is a pack animal by nature and he will be looking to you for direction.

Do not rush to get your puppy out of the crate, we recommend using them until they are at least 10-12 months old. They usually go through a chewing stage at 7-11 months and many many people have lost corners from furniture because they rushed to get their puppy out of the crate. After this time, keep your crate and leave the door open on it – your dog will feel comfortable and you will regularly find them sleeping in it.

Reminder: Do not use a crate for discipline, it is for supervision only.

What you need to know about crate-training

The first few weeks you have your new puppy are the most formative in several regards. One of the primary behaviors that are essential for your puppy’s life is proper house /crate training. There are several steps to get your puppy trained as quickly as possible, but all steps have a common denominator- consistency. Crate training relies on your puppy’s natural desire to keep its bed clean. Every successful experience is important.

Do not confuse your puppy with a modified approach, i.e. paper training. At night, the crate should be in a responsible person’s bedroom, and the puppy should be taken outside if it wakes in the night. Carry the puppy to the same location every time and use the same phrase or command to encourage the puppy to eliminate. Praise every success. As the puppy matures it can walk to the door. If the time is right and you know the puppy needs to go but he does not, return the puppy to the rate for five to fifteen minutes and the carry the puppy back outside to the correct site. Praise, praise, praise.

If there is an accident, clean up with enzyme-type pet odor remover. Do not discipline the puppy. Puppies learn to hide when they need to relieve themselves if they fear your reaction. Housetraining is first learned by people then puppies. Watch for your puppy’s body language. Circling, sniffing, walking backward and pausing in a straddle position are all common prior to elimination. Puppies need to go outside after sleeping (even a short nap), after eating, before bed, and many times during play. Playtime is when most accidents occur. Restrict your puppy’s access to most of the house. Be sure to put your puppy in its bed (crate) for naps to prevent “after sleeping” accidents.

Crate training is best for small breeds because they feel safe and secure in a small bed and it restricts their area enough to tap their internal desire to keep the bed clean. The laundry room or playpen is simply too much space.

Crate training is best for large breeds because as they grow older and their chewing needs really influence behavior, 8-18 months of age, your home will be protected from the damage and they are already adjusted and comfortable with the crate. A one-year old doodle can do massive damage to carpet, door moldings, wallpaper and wallboard. In this case, an ounce of prevention is worth hundreds of dollars of cure.

Crate training your pet allows you to include then in all aspects of family life and still maintain control of your home while demonstrating your role as the leader of the pack.

Avoid using the crate for punishment; it is your pet’s safe haven.

Controlling your puppy's mouthing, chewing and biting. Dogs, especially puppies are extremely playful and investigative. While play with people and other dogs is an important part of socialization and social development, exploration and object play are important ways for dogs to learn about their environment. Therefore it is a normal behavior for puppies to investigate their environment by sniffing, tasting and perhaps chewing on objects throughout the home. Dogs that chew may also be scavenging for food (as in garbage raiding), playing (as in the dog chews apart a book or couch), teething (dogs 3 to 6 months of age that chew on household objects (, or satisfying a natural urge to chew and gnaw (which may serve to help teeth and gums to stay healthy). Some dogs may chew because they receive attention (even if it is negative) or treats form their owners each time they chew, and the owners are inadvertently rewarding the behavior. Chewing and destructive behaviors may also be a response to anxiety. Dogs that are confined in areas where they are insecure may dig and chew in an attempt to escape. Dogs that are in a state of conflict, arousal or anxiety, such as separation anxiety, may turn to chewing and other forms of destructiveness as an outlet.

Crate Training

Crate training can be a very effective housebreaking tool, it can also help to reduce separation anxiety and prevent destructive behaviour (such as chewing furniture), to keep puppy away from dangerous household items and to serve as a mobile indoor dog house which can be moved from room to room whenever necessary.

Toys and Treats: Place your puppy’s favourite toys and treats at the far end opposite the door opening. Toys that provide entertainment for long periods of time are great. A few great ideas are the KONG or NYLABONE or a BALL.

Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than 3 hours.

Bedding: Place a towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft, comfortable bed for your puppy. Most puppies prefer lying on soft bedding while some may prefer to rest on a hard, flat surface and may push the towel away.

Location of Crate

Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home. This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out. In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort, security and enjoyment, please follow these guidelines:

Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate.

You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your puppy: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, “Where’s the biscuit? It’s in your room.” Use only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy’s toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.

It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your puppy. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone.

Please note: Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder control and will need to eliminate very frequently. Adjust the crate times accordingly.

Chewing & Biting:

For puppies the entire world is a chew toy. Puppies, like babies, explore the world with their mouths. Unfortunately, their explorations are not limited to their own toys. Your shoes, furniture, children's toys, and anything else lying around your house are fair game for a teething puppy. By providing them with toys that indulge their teething instincts, you’re more likely to spare your shoes and socks from destruction with providing proper toys.

*Young animals love to chew when they are teething. Keep electrical wires out of reach, or use a natural pet- repellent spray.

Why Do Puppies Chew?

Most of the time, chewing is normal behavior for puppies and dogs, and it serves many purposes, such as strengthening their jaws and relieving anxiety.

Like babies, puppies experience discomfort while teething, and gnawing or chewing on things provides some relief. Boredom is another reason that puppies chew. Dogs are social animals and need stimulation for their mental health. If you're not exercising your pup enough or giving it sufficient one-on-one time, it may seek attention by chewing inappropriate objects. This probably isn't news to most people, especially those with a new puppy at home. Rather than trying to prevent a puppy from chewing, teach him which things are appropriate chew toys.

Confinement is one of the tools in your arsenal when it comes to chew-training. It allows you to prevent your puppy from having the opportunity to chew on furniture, shoes, toys, or anything else you don't want him to have.

Redirecting him to appropriate toys is another part of chew training. It's not enough to tell your dog "no" when he picks up something you don't want him to have. Instead, you need to redirect him to something he can have, like a dog chew or a Kong.

Let’s First, Determine Why the Dog is Chewing.

Dogs, especially puppies are extremely playful and investigative. While play with people and other dogs is an important part of socialization and social development, exploration and object play are important ways for dogs to learn about their environment. Therefore it is a normal behavior for puppies to investigate their environment by sniffing, tasting and perhaps chewing on objects throughout the home. Dogs that chew may also be scavenging for food (as in garbage raiding), playing (as in the dog chews apart a book or couch), teething (dogs 3 to 6 months of age that chew on household objects (, or satisfying a natural urge to chew and gnaw (which may serve to help teeth and gums to stay healthy). Some dogs may chew because they receive attention (even if it is negative) or treats form their owners each time they chew, and the owners are inadvertently rewarding the behavior. Chewing and destructive behaviors may also be a response to anxiety. Dogs that are confined in areas where they are insecure may dig and chew in an attempt to escape. Dogs that are in a state of conflict, arousal or anxiety, such as separation anxiety, may turn to chewing and other forms of destructiveness as an outlet.

How can Proper Chewing be Encouraged.

Before considering how inappropriate chewing might be diagnosed and the real key is to provide some appropriate outlets for your dog’s chewing “needs.” Begin with a few toys with a variety of tastes, odors, and textures to determine what appeals most to the pet. Although plastic, nylon or rubber toys may be the most durable, products that can be torn apart such as a rawhide or pig’s ears may be more like natural prey and wood products that attract most dogs. The Kong is a durable chew toy, but its appeal can be greatly enhanced by placing a treat in it.

Puppies explore their worlds with their mouths. Like a one-year-old child, everything must be put in their mouth and tasted. Puppies begin to roughhouse with each other even before they leave their mother, and chewing and biting are a part of that play. It is a common interaction with puppies and at habit is transferred to their new human family. Because many dogs, particularly retrievers and other hunting breeds retain this oral habit for life it is essential for puppies to learn proper bite control from the beginning. As with all aspects of puppy training, remember the key word- consistency.

  • Puppies with good bite control use the mouth without inflicting harm to skin the skin.
  • If a puppy has poor bite control, i.e. scratches skin or causes bleeding, a trainer should be consulted.
  • Puppies have sharp teeth and weak jaw; they cause pain without damage. This is good because pain causes us to instruct our puppies to be careful with our skin.
  • Humans should require puppies to be gentle, even if it doesn’t hurt; puppies need to practice good control. Puppies may come in contact with people who are very young or very old; these people have thinner, softer skin and can be harmed by a puppy that is too rough with the mouth.
  • Distraction is the most useful strategy when a puppy is mouthing too much. Distract with toys. Try a variety of toy types, balls of different size (not too small), soft floppy lamb’s wool types, knotted rope (no tug of war), and soft squeaky latex. Rotate the toy selection to keep them interesting.
  • Avoid play together without toys. Do not become your puppy’s favorite chew toy.
THINGS YOU CAN DO
  • Verbal reprimand, that is like the mother’s yip or bark, meant to startle the pup
  • Negative sounds can work well like AAAT, AAAT. A soda can with a few pennies or rocks to shake also are a good source for negative reinforcement.
  • Praise your puppy when the appropriate behavior is given; if the puppy is playing nice, say “good puppy!”
  • If your puppy is being too rough, stop playing, get up and leave or put the puppy outside. Your puppy wants to be with you. If he must behave in order to enjoy your attention, he will.
  • Do not give your puppy and old shoe, or slipper or old anything that was once yours. Puppies cannot distinguish between a new shoe and an old shoe, and will not contain their chewing to old shoes only. Specific dog toys are much better.

Bite inhibition is an important part of puppy training. It involves teaching your puppy to use his teeth gently. Puppies begin to learn bite inhibition from their mothers and through interaction with littermates. Many puppies need to keep learning this once they go into a home. Begin teaching your puppy bite inhibition by allowing him to use his mouth when you are playing with him, ending the playtime if he uses his teeth too hard. Once your puppy learns that the fun stops when he bites too hard, you should begin to see him using his mouth much more gently. You may also try letting out a yelp sound to remind him to be careful.

Bite inhibition is important because it keeps you safe from those needle-like puppy teeth. It also helps prevent a serious bite from occurring when your puppy grows into adulthood. Should he ever feel the need to use his teeth to defend himself, teaching your puppy bite inhibition can mean the difference between a harmless nip and a serious bite.

What is the Best Way to Deal with Stealing?

Most puppies love to explore and chew, so it’s no surprise when a young puppy steals household objects. When you try to get these items back from your dog, a chase ensues. When dealing with an unwanted behavior look for the motivation. Some puppies steal objects when they are left unsupervised, because they have not been directed to an acceptable activity. Puppies may continue to steal because the game of chase is so much fun. Each of these motivations has a different treatment.

If left to their own devices, puppies will get into trouble. It is important to supervise your puppy at all times. Keep the puppy with you and in sight. Be sure that you schedule adequate play times daily so that you are helping your puppy engage in the proper behavior. Arrange the environment so that the puppy cannot get to items. For example, close doors, use barrier gates, crate training or motion sensor devices to monitor where your pet can go.

If your puppy continues to steal in your presence, the best means of monitoring and prevention is to leave a long leash attached, preferably to a head halter. Then as the puppy begins to wander, or puts its nose into “out of bounds” areas a quick pull on the leash will teach it to stay away.

If your puppy is stealing things because the game is so much fun, then don’t play. Instead of chasing your puppy all over the house, try crouching down in a happy voice - with open arms call your puppy to you. When the puppy looks towards you, say “good puppy, come show me!” Keep up the praise as the puppy approaches. With a treat, entice the puppy to come, show the treat and when the puppy drops the stolen object, say “good dog”. Make it come closer, sit, and then give the reward.

Most importantly, never reach for your puppy in anger after it has taken something. Remember, the behavior you want to change is the stealing, not the cowering under the table. When you threaten your puppy in that way, your risk fear and later an aggressive behavior. For some puppies if you ignore then when they steal things and try to engage them in something else instead, they may “give up” the object voluntarily.

Every effort should be made to avoid punishment for new puppies as it is generally unnecessary and can lead to avoidance of family members, at time when bonding and attachment is critical. By preventing problems through confinement or supervision, providing for the entire puppy’s needs, and setting up the environment for success, little or no punishment should ever be required. If a reprimand is needed, a verbal “no” or a loud noise is usually sufficient to distract a puppy so that you can redirect the puppy to correct behavior.